Shillong: Scotland of the East

Shillong, the capital of a small state in north-east India called Meghalaya, attracts visitors who have a keen inclination towards God created beauty. It is also known as ‘Scotland of the East’ for its scenic landmarks resembling the beautiful land of Scotland. It is situated at an altitude of 4,980 ft (1496m) above sea level with ‘lum shyllong’ being the highest point at 1965m.

It derives its name from a peak of the same name but there are also legends associated with it. One such legend is that the name came from a young handsome boy called ‘Shyllong’ who was born under mysterious conditions to a virgin mother.

Shillong was established in mid 1800s by Colonel Henry Hopkinson as a refuge for officers and staff of East India Company during summers. It was made into a new civil station by British in 1864 and was also designated as the summer capital of Eastern Bengal and Assam for many years. Finally on January 21, 1972, Meghalya was declared a new state with Shillong as its capital.

Modes of transport

Shillong is well connected by roads to its neighbours through roads, the nearest ones being Cherrapunji, Umroi, Johrabhat, Nongpoh and Guwahati (Assam). There are no railway tracks as such. So the nearest railway station is Guwahati which is just 101 km from Shillong. Guwahati is well connected by rail and there are a number of trains that head towards Guwahati. For more information you could log on to the website www.indianrail.gov.in to get an insight on the fares, timing, ticket availability and other such details. Guwahati airport is also easily accessible with almost all known airlines flying in. Hence getting to Guwahati would be no difficult task. The journey from Guwahati to Shillong takes about 2 ½ -3 hours by road.

Taxis are readily available from each end. It would cost you around Rs.1,100 for a full taxi comprising five passengers. Hence, for an individual, it would cost around Rs.250. Sumo’s and other such bulk passenger carrying taxis are also available which would cost more. Pre-paid taxis could be accessed from outside the Guwahati railway station and airport. Fares from airport would be more as it is around 120 kms from Shillong.

Bus service is also available and works out to be cheaper as compared to taxis. Travelling in an ordinary Meghalaya State Transport bus would cost around Rs.150-180/person. A more deluxe bus would cost around Rs200-250/person. Bus services are also available from both Guwahati station and airport with again fares from airport being slightly high.

Air service is limited as there are no airports in Shillong. The closest one being Umroi which is around 30km from Shillong. Flights to this airport are very limited. But there are Helicopter services also available from Guwahati which would cost around Rs.625 for 30 minutes/person.

Note: It is advisable not to travel at night.

Places to see in and around Shillong

Shillong is blessed with natural beauty. Mountain peaks, waterfalls, pine trees, calm and peaceful climate adds to the beauty. There are a lot of places to visit in and around Shillong that will leave a remarkable impact on you.

Wards Lake: A man made lake right in the heart of the city, it was built by Chief Commissioner William Ward in 1893. The lake has a white wooden bridge resembling the Japanese art somewhat. The lake has beautiful fishes in it. It’s a nice picnic spot with a botanical garden just next to it. Snacks are provided inside or else you could carry your own eatables. A minimal entry fee has to be paid in order to enter with extra charges for carrying a camera or a handycam.

Elephant Falls: Situated around 12km from Shillong, this fall has its own eye catching features. A footpath leads to a bridge spanning across a mountain stream which descends into two successive falls set in the dells of the fern covered rocks. There are caves around this fall which can be accessed only through special permission. Entry fee is required here too. Provision for car parking is also provided. Snacks are easily available inside but you could carry your own eatables.

Lady Hydari Park: It lies in the heart of Shillong. Located just behind the Civil Hospital Complex, the Park is well maintained with a garden and mini-zoo. It is an ideal place to have a picnic. A minimal entry fee has to be paid here too with eatables available both inside and outside the park.

Shillong View Point and Shillong Peak: Approximately 10 kms from the city, this point offers a panoramic view of the city below. The Shillong Peak is situated nearby and is the highest point in Meghalaya with an altitude of 1960 meters above sea level. No entry fee needs to be paid here. Small tea shops are available.

Golf Course: The 18-hole course located within the city is considered to be one of the best natural golf courses in the world. Highly regarded among golfers, this course has been the venue of many championships for professionals and amateurs. The club house has been designed to resemble an English Manor. It is often referred to as the ‘Gleneagles of the East’ at the United States Golf Association Library & Museum.

State Museum: This is the ideal place to get a quick insight into the life of the tribes of Meghalaya as this Museum showcases their history, ethnography and lifestyle.

Catholic Cathedral: Situated between Dhankheti and Laitumkhrah, this imposing Cathedral is dedicated to May-Help of Christians. A beautiful statue of Jesus Christ is placed just opposite the Cathedral.

The Anglican Cemetery and Church: A quiet road from the ‘General’s Point’ leads to the Anglican Cemetery. British nationals who served under the crown in this region are buried here and their tombstones make an interesting read into history.

Motphran: The ‘Stone of France’ was erected in memory of the many tribesmen from the north-east who served under the British in France during the 1st world war.

Iewduh: Right next to Motphran is the largest traditional market of the Khasi, managed by the Syiem of Mylliem (local King). Traditional rituals are conducted every year within the market areas at ‘Khlieh Iew’. This market at one time was the sole domain of women and is still dominated by them.

Rengthiam Falls: At a distance of 15 kms from Shillong on the Shillong - Jowai highway is the awe-inspiring Rengthiam Falls. It is located in the Mwlyngad village.

Bara Pani: The Bara Pani Lake is situated on the Shillong-Guwahati highway. This is an ideal place to some spend time in too.

Cherrapunji: The mountain cliffs and waterfalls make it an ideal spot to visit. This was also the place to experience the highest rainfall, but not anymore.

Mausangram: Not far from Cherrapunji, this place holds the current title of receiving the highest rainfall downpour. Surely a place you wouldn’t like to miss.

Police Bazaar: This market place inf Shillong is in a state of hustle and bustle almost the entire day. All sorts of clothes, both ordinary and branded, are available here. Great food joints and hotels are easily available too.

Bara Bazaar: This local vegetable market has its own charm and restlessness. Old buildings still stand here today. Electrical appliances, whole sale products and a lot of miscellaneous articles can be bought form here.

Places to Eat

Shillong has its own local fruits and dishes which are very popular with the visitors.

Chinese cuisine is quite popular here as it is prepared by the Chinese people themselves. Momos, thupkas, noodles (also referred to as chow-chow), soups and all the Chinese delicacies are a must have here. There are a number of restaurants that provide wonderful Chinese food. Some of them are Eee Cee, Broadway, Embassy, Center Point, Abba, Bombay Chinese Center etc.

Jadoh is a traditional pork dish with a combination of rice. To give finishing touches, little bit of pork blood is sprinkled on top. This is available in selected joints only. Saophlang is a white fruit which is easily available in the markets. It is served with local made black chutney that gives it a very good taste. Dosniang, a particular type of pork preparation, tastes as good as its name. This is available in selected joints only. Thrumba, a particular type of rice preparation, is enjoyed mostly with dosniang. This is also available in selected joints only.

If you are interested in more basic Indian dishes, they too are available here. If you are interested in sweets, then ‘Delhi Mistan’ is your one stop destination. There are other alternatives available but this sweet shop has huge popularity.

Kwai, raw beetle nut, is very popular here and available everywhere within Shillong. First time users must be careful because it has a very strong drug like effect and could leave you unconscious for some time. It is tasteless and taken along with the ‘paan leaf’.

If you want to play it safe, then hang out at the recently opened Café Coffee Day outlet. If you are interested in the desi ‘samosa’ or ‘bread pakora’, then Palace is where you should be headed to.

Places to Shop

Shillong has a variety of things to shop for. If you are interested in handloom or other local made products, then the Indian Emporium located at Police Bazaar is an ideal place.

Else if you are interested in buying clothes, then you have a wide range of option to choose from. The Glory’s Plaza is a kind of mall for Shillong people. It has everything from clothes to food to books etc. The Bhutia Market within has all the latest fashion clothes and accessories available. Other shops are available too displaying their own products. Clothes are cheaper here and do not forget to negotiate for prices.

But if you are more of the branded types, then you do not have to go far. All brands ranging from Puma to Reebok to Nike are easily available at the Police Bazaar market. You could try Krishna’s, Mohini, Glamour, Selection Center, Bablas, Guru Nanak Super Market etc.

Article by Rahul Singh Hattar

An Indian Backpacker